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Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site topaz.ARPA
Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!cbosgd!cbdkc1!desoto!packard!topaz!awalker
From: awalker@topaz.ARPA (*Hobbit*)
Newsgroups: net.auto
Subject: Wrong!!
Message-ID: <617@topaz.ARPA>
Date: Wed, 13-Feb-85 13:48:23 EST
Article-I.D.: topaz.617
Posted: Wed Feb 13 13:48:23 1985
Date-Received: Thu, 14-Feb-85 03:03:49 EST
Organization: LCS Expert gang, Rutgers
Lines: 26

Uh - This should be pointed out for the benefit of all us fo-by owners.

   From: jeepcj2a@fluke.UUCP (Dale Chaudiere)

   Case 2:  If you every buy a 4-wheel drive vehicle, you must rotate the 
	tires.  Any difference in tire diameter from front to back will 
	cause the  transfer case to bind, except on the most slippery 
	surfaces.

What kind of truck are *you* driving?  Any full-time 4wd vehicle has a
set of spider gears in the transfer case, which let the front and rear
shafts rotate at different rates.  In fact the front and rear punkins are
often different ratios, which makes this necessary.  Naturally, if you
lock the shafts together and drive on dry pavement, you'll get torque
windup across the drivetrain which will undoubtely break something.
Tire diameter therefore has nothing to do with what the 4wd drivetrain
is doing.

I have a '74 K10 Blazer into which I bolted a ''half-time'' kit that makes
it full-time rear drive and switchable front wheel drive.  [Especially
after *losing* the front CV joint one trip back from Boston.]  With this
arrangement you not only save some gas, but if you lose a U-joint miles from
anywhere, you can take the rear shaft completely *out* and get home on the
hitherto-unused front one.

_H*