Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site topaz.ARPA Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!cbosgd!cbdkc1!desoto!packard!topaz!awalker From: awalker@topaz.ARPA (*Hobbit*) Newsgroups: net.auto Subject: Wrong!! Message-ID: <617@topaz.ARPA> Date: Wed, 13-Feb-85 13:48:23 EST Article-I.D.: topaz.617 Posted: Wed Feb 13 13:48:23 1985 Date-Received: Thu, 14-Feb-85 03:03:49 EST Organization: LCS Expert gang, Rutgers Lines: 26 Uh - This should be pointed out for the benefit of all us fo-by owners. From: jeepcj2a@fluke.UUCP (Dale Chaudiere) Case 2: If you every buy a 4-wheel drive vehicle, you must rotate the tires. Any difference in tire diameter from front to back will cause the transfer case to bind, except on the most slippery surfaces. What kind of truck are *you* driving? Any full-time 4wd vehicle has a set of spider gears in the transfer case, which let the front and rear shafts rotate at different rates. In fact the front and rear punkins are often different ratios, which makes this necessary. Naturally, if you lock the shafts together and drive on dry pavement, you'll get torque windup across the drivetrain which will undoubtely break something. Tire diameter therefore has nothing to do with what the 4wd drivetrain is doing. I have a '74 K10 Blazer into which I bolted a ''half-time'' kit that makes it full-time rear drive and switchable front wheel drive. [Especially after *losing* the front CV joint one trip back from Boston.] With this arrangement you not only save some gas, but if you lose a U-joint miles from anywhere, you can take the rear shaft completely *out* and get home on the hitherto-unused front one. _H*